FOOD.RttP{Attn: Hoser and other hill people - what do I need to know to start bowhunting?}

Ok...I don't mind helping anyone who wants to start hunting, even if you're a Masswipe.

I'll do this in steps to make it easy.

1.) You MUST attend an NRA certified hunter safety program before you can even buy a license in ANY state. They are typically free here where I live, but in Mass. expect fees because Mass. sucks.

2.) You MAY have to attend a seperate course for bow hunting, as is law for newly licensed bow hunters in the state of Maine.

3.) I would forget about your Dad's old bow altogether. An effective bow hunter carries a bow that is built to his/her exact draw length, and pound preference. Using someone elses bow is like wearing someone else's bluejeans...they may "kind of" fit, but they will never be as comfortable and downright reliable as the set that you bought off of the shelf JUST FOR YOU. It's important, believe me. You have the choice to either kill the animal, or take a slough shot and risk wounding it, possibly for the rest of it's now shortened life (i.e Coyotes, Bear.) Also, if the limbs on the bow are old, you risk breaking them, which may not only be a bummer for your Dad, but it may also blow up in your face causing injury, or if it gets your eyes...maybe blindness. When a limb snaps under that kind of pressure, it ain't pretty. It's like it fucking exploded in your hands.

4.) Recurves and longbows are NOT illegal anywhere in New England. They are completely legal, but I recommend a good compound bought from a reputable shop that will measure your exact draw length (from your non-dominant hand to your dominant ear.) Once this is measured, the poundage of the bow (typically 50-70lbs) can be adjusted to your comfort level and the level of fatigue felt at full draw for over 10 seconds. Most compounds made now are between 70% and 80% let-off. Let-off is the measurement (in percentage) of the total draw weight of the bow that is "forgiven" once the bow attains full draw length (i.e if the bow is set at 70lbs. draw weight, and the bow has 80% let-off, at full draw you will only be holding (and feeling) 14lbs. of weight. This is made possible by the use of what are known as "cams" and "wheels." Many bows are either a "cam" or a "cam and a half.) In theory, the latter will have greater let-off, and higher FPS (arrow speed.)

I can get as in depth as you want me to. Arrow choice, and weight of broadhead (in Grains) will also have a huge effect on accuracy and speed (for example...I personally shoot 100 grain G5 Montecs (broadheads) to achieve my greatest accuracy. With my current set-up (2006 Hoyt Trykon 29.5" draw 70lbs. draw weight (custom sights, quiver, arrow rest, and stabilizer), Easton Carbon Fiber arrows, and 100 grain G5 Montecs. I can put and arrow on a quarter at 20-40 yards. 40 yards is the max distance that I will personally take an animal at, that will almost guarantee me a clean kill. Most guys will only go out to 25-30 yards, some guys are superstars at 50 yards. 40 is what I'm comfortable with.

I paid about $1400 for my current set-up, as it's all custom. If you have the long-term desire, the practice (does'nt take very long with the proper amount of dedication) and the money, you will find a lifetime skill and a desire to hunt that you may have never had before.

Good luck, man!